The project “Towards Safe and Sustainable Biobased Textiles” (BioSusTex) aims to demonstrate the rapid development of key technologies that will significantly impact the textile value chain. This need has been highlighted by key industrial partners within the consortium. BioSusTex focuses on cotton and cellulosic textiles, targeting increased recycling rates and the substitution of harmful compounds by:

1. Delivering an optimized cellulosic fiber recycling process for dope-dyed man-made cellulosics.
2. Developing efficient and sustainable pre-processing techniques for removing elastane, dyes, and impurities from post-consumer blended cellulosic textiles, while avoiding potential toxic degradation products during processing.
3. Creating a biobased, PFAS-free water-repellent coating using an innovative methodology with temporary surfactants.
4. Developing removable biobased, PVC-free print formulations.

Significant improvements in these key technologies, in line with the Safe and Sustainable-by-Design (SSbD) framework, are expected to notably enhance the sustainability of the textile value chain. Additionally, BioSusTex will provide technical solutions and address industry needs for rapid assessment methods by:

5. Further developing analytical methods and prediction tools related to toxicity evaluation.
6. Building a novel Decision Support software tool that implements the SSbD methodology.
7. Creating a database compiling all the data generated in the project.

With this in mind, BioSusTex aims to pioneer key technologies to enhance the sustainability of the textile value chain. These efforts include optimising recycling of cellulosic fibres, developing sustainable pre-processing techniques, creating bio-based water-repellent coatings, and providing analytical methods and prediction tools for toxicity assessment. 

These initiatives are in line with the Safe and Sustainable-by-Design (SSbD) framework, designed to promote sustainable innovation within the textile industry.

Measurement of Fiber Length

After tearing, the fiber length can be measured. The measurement is performed using optical analysis according to ISO 4913. This method determines the average length and length distribution of fibers and provides statistical data such as mean length (mm) and the proportion of short fibers <12.7mm (%).

What we offer

RISE offers textile shredding in our shredding machine. Through our proven processes, we can handle a wide range of materials, including:

• Natural fibers such as cotton and wool
• Synthetic fibers such as polyester and polyamide
• Special materials such as leather and technical textiles

The shredding process can be tailored to your specific needs, enabling the recycling of materials for new applications, such as melt processing or composite manufacturing.

As a client, you also have the opportunity to visit our facility and observe the shredding process in action – a valuable chance to gain insight into how your materials are repurposed.

Would you like to learn more or get a quote? Contact us today!

RISE has extensive experience in conducting life cycle assessments of textile value chains, both in research and consulting assignments. RISE can assist with everything from defining goal and scope, data collection, environmental impact assessment and interpretation of results. The life cycle assessments can be carried out in collaboration with RISE experts in areas such as bio-based materials, textile recycling and textile production techniques. The result can be used for product development, creating environmental product declarations or formulating policy recommendations.

RISE closely follows method development and changing requirements within life cycle assessment of textile value chains, for example EU's own method Product Environmental Footprint (PEF), where apparel and footwear is a prioritized area. RISE also contributes to raising the state of knowledge in the field, for example within the ongoing EU-funded research projects CISUTAC and tExtended. An example of a previous research project is Mistra Future Fashion.

RISE can also perform critical reviews of life cycle assessments and verify environmental product declarations (EPDs).

Do you want to know more? Please contact our experts!

Design principles for circular textiles

Circular design begins with material selection and construction. To enable circular material flows, sustainability must be built into product development from the outset:

• Choose materials that can be recycled in established systems
• Avoid complex fibre blends that hinder recycling
• Design products for easy disassembly and repair
• Ensure traceability of materials and components
• Minimise microfibre release from synthetic materials

Material selection and fibre classification

The choice of fibre affects both a product's lifespan and its environmental footprint. RISE classifies textile fibres according to industry standards and sustainability criteria, and guides you in selecting materials that minimise climate impact — without compromising function or quality.

Reducing microfibre release from synthetic textiles

Textiles made from synthetic fibres such as polyester and nylon contribute to microfibre release into our waterways. RISE works with start-ups, appliance manufacturers and public authorities to reduce these effects. We offer analyses using both standardised and in-house methods, develop filter solutions for washing machines and carry out comparative studies of wash programmes and machine types.

Services for material selection and circular textile design

• Circular design
• Classification of textile fibres to industry standards and sustainability criteria
• Classification for recycling
• Analysis of microfibre release during washing
• Development and testing of filter solutions for washing machines
• Gravimetric and microscopic analysis of fibre release

We protect your innovations through proper handling of intellectual property rights and clear non-disclosure agreements (NDAs).

Who we help

We work with organisations across the entire textile value chain: global and local manufacturers and brands (clothing, interiors, workwear, technical textiles), public bodies and municipal waste companies, and material and component producers.

We offer both specific services and long-term partnerships, including support in research and innovation projects and help applying for national or EU funding.

Purpose

The purpose of the course is to provide you with a comprehensive overview of wet and air-gap spinning processes, highlighting key technological developments. We cover the essential stages, starting with polymer dissolution (dope preparation) and its characterization, and guide you through the steps required to produce filament or staple fibre yarn. You will learn about common challenges encountered during process upscaling and receive practical advice on how to address them. The course primarily focuses on man-made cellulosic fibers, but the content can be customized to meet your company's specific needs. Depending on the desired content and format, by the end of the course, you can gain a deeper understanding of the process, acquire hands-on experience in wet spinning, learn about tools for effective dope and fiber characterization, etc. 

Target Audience

The course is oriented toward companies in the early stage of developing their wet (air-gap) spinning technology. It is primarily designed for researchers, engineers, technicians, and operators involved in process development. An academic degree in material science, chemistry, chemical engineering, polymer technology or related fields is advantageous but not mandatory. The course is also valuable for professionals in marketing, sales and business development who seek a deeper understanding of the technology.

Format

The course is organized on demand and is given exclusively to a group of participants from your company. Therefore, the contents can be customized to meet your company’s specific needs. The typical group size is 3 to 10 participants. The course can be conducted either on-site at RISE in Mölndal, Sweden, or digitally. The typical course duration is 1 day for theory or 2 days for theory and practice.

Contents of a standard theory part

• Conventional fibre spinning techniques
• Historical perspective on solution spinning
• Wet and air-gap spinning techniques:
  • Raw materials
  • Dope preparation and characterization
  • Filtration
  • Extrusion and Coagulation
  • Washing
  • Drawing/Stretching
  • Spin finish application
  • Drying of fibres
  • Staple fiber production
  • Yarn spinning
• Fiber properties
• Case studies

Language

The course language is English.

Price

The price varies based on the desired course format. Please send us a non-binding request with your specific needs and the number of participants.