Fragrances in cosmetics: balancing sensory experience and safety

Why is fragrance safety important in cosmetics?
Fragrances are an essential part of the consumer experience. At the same time, they are chemically complex mixtures that can trigger skin irritation, sensitisation, and in some cases contribute to systemic exposure.

Since many consumers use several fragranced products daily, the combined exposure can be significant. This makes safety assessments a critical part of product development.

As toxicologists, our role is to ensure that fragrance ingredients are used at safe and appropriate levels. Structured risk assessments help keep exposure within safe limits while enabling the cosmetic industry to develop products with appealing sensory qualities.

How do you balance consumer expectations with safety and regulations?
Fragrances play a central role in how consumers experience cosmetic products, but they are also among the most common causes of contact allergies. Balancing sensory appeal with safety is therefore essential. Transparency in ingredient reporting is particularly important for individuals sensitised to specific substances.

In our work with industry, a key part is explaining the scientific reasoning behind restrictions and identifying practical alternatives that maintain the desired sensory profile. This collaborative approach supports both compliance and innovation.

How are fragrances assessed for leave-on products?
Safety assessments are based on established scientific and regulatory frameworks, including the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) and the EU Cosmetic Products Regulation.

In addition to EU legislation, assessments also consider international guidelines such as RIFM safety evaluations and IFRA Standards. These provide science-based recommendations on safe use levels and applications for fragrance materials.

In practice, this involves combining exposure estimation, allergen potency evaluation, and threshold-based risk assessment to ensure safe use, particularly in leave-on products intended for sensitive skin.

What are common misconceptions about fragrance safety?
Fragrances are sometimes perceived as “just scents”, but in reality they are complex mixtures that may contain allergenic substances.

Another common misconception is that natural ingredients are inherently safer than synthetic ones. In practice, safety depends on the intrinsic properties of each substance, not its origin.

Clarifying these aspects is an important part of our work, helping clients better understand both risks and safe use.

What trends are shaping fragrance safety today?
In recent years, there has been a clear trend towards increased transparency and stricter allergen management, particularly within the EU. Recent updates have expanded the list of fragrance allergens that must be declared, strengthening consumer protection.

At the same time, scientific approaches continue to evolve, with improved data, exposure models, and risk assessment methodologies.

Together, these developments support safer products and more harmonised practices across the global cosmetics industry.

What do you find makes this work meaningful?

Fragrance safety sits at the intersection of science, regulation, and real-world impact, making this interdisciplinary work very interesting. Ensuring that cosmetic products can be both enjoyable and safe is an important responsibility, requiring collaboration across the value chain, from toxicologists and formulators to regulators and industry stakeholders.

At RISE, this work is part of our broader mission to support safe, sustainable, and science-based innovation.